Vitamin C Before And After Acne Scars
Breakouts are undeniably stress-inducing in their own right, but their byproduct 'acne scarring' can have just as much of an impact, as scars are often trickier to treat. Thankfully, there are several targeted products that when paired with a regimented routine can and will reduce scarring. We asked dermatologist Dr Kemi Fabusiwa everything you want to know about fading marks for good...
What causes acne scars?
This might seem like a bit of a 'duh' question but it's good to understand the mechanisms at play when scars form. "Acne causes inflammation," explains Dr Fabusiwa. "This inflammation damages the skin and leads to breaks in the moisture barrier. The skin attempts to heal over this damage by laying down connective tissue such as collagen fibres at the site of injury. It is this dysregulated healing process that leads to uneven skin and scarring. Unfortunately, acne scarring can take a long time to heal."
Different types of scars explained
"There are four types of acne scars," explains Dr Fabusiwa explains.
- Hypertrophic scars: these are raised as the scar forms too much connective tissue at the site of injury.
- Boxcar scars: well-defined deep depressions in the skin.
- Rolling scars: poorly defined deep depressions in the skin.
- Icepick scars: narrow impressions resembling an ice pick puncture.
Hyperpigmentation often occurs alongside acne scarring as melanocytes release excess melanin at the site of inflammation.
Why are some people more prone to scars than others?
The realisation that some people barely suffer from scarring is a hard pill to swallow. Unfortunately, it's got nothing to do with luck and everything to do with your genes. "Acne scarring often depends on our genetics. Individuals with deeper skin tones are at a higher risk of hyperpigmentation due to their larger melanocytes, which produce more melanin. If you have a predisposition to having acne, you are also more likely to scar."
How can you prevent acne scars from forming?
It is easier said than done. No spots means no scars, and if the solution to acne was simple, well, there would be no article. But, as with 99.9% of skincare concerns: "Prevention is much better than cure," stresses Dr Fabusiwa. "The best way to prevent acne scarring is to prevent the acne in the first place. To do this, one must have a diligent skincare routine that includes elements that focus on oil control and reducing inflammation."
What are the best products & ingredients for acne scars?
A combo of preventative and restorative products are necessary - so make sure you are adequately armed from the get go.
SPF
You don't need us to tell you, but Dr Fabusiwa is here to remind you again how important it is to wear suncream. "Daily SPF is imperative in preventing hyperpigmentation." Make sure your chosen protector is oil-free and ideally one formulated for blemish-prone skin so it doesn't cause new breakouts.
Clearing Defense SPF30 Moisturiser
Dermalogica lookfantastic.com
£25.00
Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 Mattifying Face Sunscreen Broad Spectrum
REN cultbeauty.co.uk
£30.00
Clear Moisturiser SPF30
Paula's Choice cultbeauty.co.uk
£11.00
SVR Sebiaclear Daily Sunscreen SPF50
SVR Laboratoires lookfantastic.com
£11.39
Vitamin C
Known for its base brightening, vitamin C is an integral part of any skincare regime but holds exceptional value for those struggling with scars. Not only does the antioxidant increase cell turnover, boosting the skin's regeneration process and diminishing hyperpigmentation, it supports collagen production which Dr Fabusiwa informs us "enhances wound healing." Two birds one stone. Potent serums with a higher percentage of vitamin C will yield the best results, so stick to those over 15%.
C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum for Normal/Dry Skin
SkinCeuticals lookfantastic.com
£126.00
15% Vitamin C And Egf Serum
The Inkey List feelunique.com
£14.89
iS Clinical Super Serum Advance Plus
iS Clinical skincity.co.uk
£145.00
Skin Regimen Vitamin C Booster
Comfort Zone feelunique.com
£64.60
Retinol
Is there anything retinol can't do? Put simply, no, not really. If you are unfamiliar with all the wondrous ways it can improve your complexion read this. If you cba, in a nutshell, you need it. Don't wait until the scars have already formed, if you are battling breakouts you should already be applying retinol regularly. "Retinol or vitamin A prevents acne and the scarring," says Dr Fabusiwa. It does this by increasing cell turnover, which in turn removes the buildup of dead skin and bacteria from pores. This process of exfoliation helps brighten your complexion and fade any darkened areas.
If your skin is not used to retinol you should start with a low percentage formula and slowly work your way up, checking in to see how your skin is doing as you go. Sensitivity and peeling is a normal part of the process, but if at any point you find it is becoming too much, take a break. On the other hand, if you are using a high strength formula and seeing little results it is worth speaking to a doctor. Often extreme acne and scarring will require a prescription-strength retinoid.
Crystal Retinal 3
Medik8 cultbeauty.co.uk
£45.00
Allies Of Skin 1A Retinal™ & Peptides Overnight Mask, £105
Buy now
A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
Sunday Riley cultbeauty.co.uk
£70.00
Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
Murad cultbeauty.co.uk
£75.00
Exfoliating acids
Think of these as a less severe version of an in-salon chemical peel, which you can safely administer yourself in the comfort of your bathroom. Again, it makes sense to be using these during, after and even before blemishes rear their relentless head, so you might as well invest in one now.
AHA glycolic acid is considered the gold standard for intensive resurfacing, while BHA's are known for their superior blemish busting, making them better suited to oily, spot-prone complexions. When used daily, both can increase cell turnover, slough away the buildup of dead skin and refine your complexion. Often, you'll find formulas mix and match so you're getting the benefits of all three. If your skin is very sensitive we suggest sticking to lactic acid, as it is far gentler than the rest.
Exfoliating Night Water
Starface starface.world
US$10.79
Solution
Glossier Glossier
US$24.00
Refresh AHA BHA Vitamin C Daily Toner
COSRX lookfantastic.com
£17.42
Squalane + Glycolic Renewal Facial
Biossance cultbeauty.co.uk
£37.00
Professional treatments
Sometimes scarring is so severe it requires more extensive treatment. In this instance, you should turn to a professional to help heal your skin. "Some acne scarring needs more than just 'at home' skincare. You need to consider advanced treatments that can help to resurface and transform the skin. These include micro-needling and advanced peels."
"It is also best to seek professional help as early as possible. This might come in the form of your GP who can give you prescription-strength anti-acne medication or an aesthetician who can administer resurfacing treatments." Dr Fabusiwa also adds that those with deeper skin tones should avoid microdermabrasion. "Whilst this does help to resurface the skin. It can also lead to excessive inflammation, which can exacerbate hyperpigmentation."
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Gabrielle Dyer Senior Beauty Writer Gaby is the Senior Beauty Writer here at Cosmopolitan.com/UK.
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Vitamin C Before And After Acne Scars
Source: https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/advice/a34553/get-rid-of-acne-scars/
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